Collar



Oct. 29, 1929. J. H. DEUTSCHMANN 1,733,297

Y COLLAR Filed July 20, 1928 Patented Oct. 29, 1929 UNITED STATES JACOBH. DEUTSOHMANN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS COLLAR Application filed July20,

My invention relates to apparel and has particular reference to collarsand methods of making them. Heretofore it has been customary in themanufacture of collars to weave the raw material on a special loomwhereby the warp threads were curved and then omit certain of the warpthreads at the fold line. An alternative method has been to stamp outthe collar in two parts from ordinary fabric. These two parts, the bandand the fold-over portion, were then oined in various manners to obtaina curvilinear fold line whereby a proper set of the collar was secured.Both of these methods, however, are open to serious objection of beingexpensive and time consuming. Furthermore, the number of defectivecollars produced in this way is always very large. By my method, I amenabled to make a collar with a curvilinear fold line which will notstretch and which will retain its character under all conditions ofservice. The manufacture of the collar is very simple and involves nomore than the very simplest of operations.

An object of my invention is to devise a collar and a method of makingit which will be simple, cheap, and productive of a satisfactory andwell appearing article.

A further object is to dispense with the central buttonhole coming atthe rear of the neck, thus rendering the ordinary collar buttonunnecessary at that point.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a plan view of one side of myimproved collar; Figure 2 is a plan view of the other side.

The collar comprises neck band portion 1 and fold-over portion 2. Theneck band portion 1 has the usual buttonholes 8 and 4 at each end. Thiscollar is stamped out of ordinary fabric. Along curve 10, correspondingto the fold line of the collar is a line of stitching 11. This line ofstitching comprises an ordinary stitch 12 and a buttonhole stitch 13superimposed thereon. This buttonhole stitch is disposed so that itinterlocks with the ordinary stitch 11. The buttonhole stitch appearsonly within the fold of the collar, and forms a relatively inflexiblefold line for it. Due to the comparatively large length of thread usedin the advance of the stitch 1928; Serial No. 294,242.

in the direction of feed, there is formed within the fold of the collarand at the fold line a bulge, around which the collar may fold in acurve rather than forming a sharp bend. The stitching may be guided todelineate any desirable fold line and may be so applied as tomechanically support the fabric. In this way, the collar is preventedfrom stretching, while the curvilinear fold line retains its set. Byproperly matching the color of the thread with the fabric, the otherside of the stitching may be made practically invisible. In this way,the fold line of the collar is stiffened and made practically rigid forall purposes. Even though dampened with perspiration, the fold line willnot stretch and will retain its curved characteristics, thus keeping theset of the collar correct.

At the central portion of the fold line is a tab 15, sewed on at thefold line preferably by stitching 11, and forming a loop 16. Whenputting on the collar, the tab may be slipped over the band of thenecktie and the end tucked into the customary pocket at the middlebuttonhole of the neck band of the shirt. If desired, the usual collarbutton may be used in conjunction with loop 16.

l/Vhen the collar is folded over for wear, the bulge at the fold-overportion will prevent a sharp edge from being formed at the fold line.The necktie will thus be able to be positioned higher up on the collarand nearer the fold line, thus avoiding the common occurrence of thenecktie slipping down so low as to be visible at the bottom edge of thecollar. Furthermore, the rounded edge on the inside of the collar whenfolded over, will prevent the breaking of the threads at that portionwhen the collar is starched and will be conducive to a longer life.

Thus it will be seen that I have devised a collar which is exceedinglysimple to make and yet satisfactory and durable.

I claim:

1. A collar comprising a neck band and fold-over portion all of onepiece and a line of stitching along the fold line, said stitching havingsuch a length of thread per ad vance of stitch in the direction of feedas to form a bulge and being so disposed as to be invisible on theoutside surface of the collar.

2. A collar comprising a neck band and fold-over portion of one piece, aline of stitching determining the fold line of the collar, saidstitching having such a length of thread per advance of stitch in thedirection of feed as to form a bulge, and a tab joined to'the centralportion of the collar at the fold line by said stitching.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification this16th day of July, 1928.

JACOB H. DEUTSCHMANN.

